Cafe Military

I have to admit that I usually associate certain cuisines with certain cities and for me Parsi cuisine represents old Bombay. I had made a list of parsi eateries to visit and this tiny eatery was definitely on the list. In today's virtual world the information on a certain topic of your choice is abundant and so I read reviews, noted the route and I was going to have a date with Old Bombay.

The cafe is not that difficult to locate. When going from CST railways station you need to take D.N.Road and then keep walking ahead, walk past Flora Fountain and then look for the Old Oriental Building which bifurcates the road in two on the left side of the road when traveling for CST and keep to one's left. walk straight ahead and you find this unpretentious eatery.

The eatery is not really a cafe. This is a typical Parsi lunch home. From my experience and talks with some of the owners it is clear that most of these Parsi eating establishments were originally intended for office goers who wanted to grab a quick bite during lunch. So they remain closed on Sundays and function between 11a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The decor has been maintained like it was when they opened the gates and so you have the solid wooden tables and chairs along with the addition of a few new age iron chairs , simple and clean. The restaurant isn't air-conditioned but with high celings and thick walls you are in a cool haven. There is a vintage clock and little posters of 'Bawa tips' (Parsi jokes) stuck on the clean but well maintained walls.

The bald smiling server came up to me with the menu but since I already knew about the menu thanks to Zomato I asked for the chicken cutlet gravy and a pack of Chicken Biriyani to be packed for dinner. Their menu keeps changing everyday so that the regular customers do not get bored and you have reason to go back again and again. As expected from these old establishments the servers are extremely courteous. This is one eatery where you get beer at cheap rates (as mentioned by many a reviewer on Zomato) but since I do not drink beer I ordered a glass of lemonade.

What pleased me first was the huge size of the glass. I usually like my fresh lime soda with a balanced taste of sweetness and saltiness and most restaurants make it either a bit too sweet or too salty. This cafe's fresh lime soda was perfect for my taste. It was perfectly chilled and there wasn't any ice which means you get extra value for money.

My chicken cutlet gravy along with six mini sized white sliced bread was served within 7 minutes and at Rs90 the size of the cutlet impressed me and with bite after bite I realized this was a few cafes where the ration of chicken to potato was 80:20 which means you again get value for money and the taste is amazing. Now I feel very uncomfortable clicking pictures at restaurants and so I do not have a visual image but imagine a cutlet which is as big as a big tea cup's saucer, big enough for an entire meal . The cutlet is perfectly crisp on the outside with succulent melt in the mouth minced meat inside. Doused in a balanced gravy it is simply perfect. From what I could make it there was a generous amount of garlic and onions,tomato and jeera dhanu (Cumin and coriander) if I am not mistaken which makes this dish one of the best friend for your taste buds.

I was completely full and since my packaged Biriyani was already placed on my table I was ready to ask for the cheque when the gentle server asked me if i did not want the caramel custard. His tone had suggested that I couldn't but miss it and one spoonful of that dessert and I knew what he was talking about. Somebody has rightly said that you get the best caramel custards of Bombay in this place and I completely agree. It was the creamiest, smoothest and most delicious creme caramel or caramel custard that I have ever had. The caramel was perfectly dark in colour and full of flavour not the usual syrupy liquid but dark, full bodied and a delight. I was almost ready to order a second helping when I realized I would barely be able to move after that and so I left wanting for more which means I am sure to go back as soon as I visit Bombay again.

Now I carried back the Biriyani and had a delightful supper. You see there are numerous types of Biriyani and to compare one with the other is foolishness. The Biriyani here has rice which is moist layered with  the chicken which is cooked in a dry  curry. So you mix everything and then enjoy a hearty meal of chicken rice and curry together. There was the distinct taste of caramelized onions with tomatoes , garlic, ginger and spices blend well .That it was saffron which imparted that yellowish colour was clear because turmeric would inevitably give out a strange smell.

My total bill came to a mere Rs315 . It is completely value for money and in fact econimic.

I definitely recommend a hearty meal at cafe Military.

Of Farchas, Nan khatais and Bombay

Of Farchas, Nan khatais and Bombay

I have not been an avid blogger even though I have had an account for the simple reason of lack of time but recently something made me feel it would be truly sinful not to share that which is as good as what I had experienced. 

Calcutta's offer of culinary varieties can make one feel extremely happy. Staying in the heart of Calcutta I have never realized how much lady luck had favoured me until I moved to Mumbai. My second  impression of the city was initially a disastrous one. The plane lands in the midst of dirt and slums. The ride to Mulund was unimpressive. It was dirty and honestly I was sad. For the first few months I dared not move out of the house. I had done my research and found that to go to the market equivalent to New market of Calcutta I would have to travel some 30km and for someone who has hardly had to travel 2km to reach most destinations for all her 23 years it seemed impossible at first .  I abhorred the local trains but then staying away from the hub of the city drove me to the verge of insanity and I finally decided to take matters in my own hand and explore the city. 

I believe a city's heritage is upheld by three things, the architecture , the people  and most importantly its culinary offerings and for anyone who has read a bit about Mumbai or (Bombay as I still like to call it  ) Bombay and Parsi cuisine is inseparable. 

So one day I finally gathered the courage to board the local train at around 11 in the morning and  was pleasantly surprised to find it quite empty. Here I must mention that having that streak of culinary enthusiasm , I had already tried to visit Colaba Causeway within the first week of moving to the city and had made the massive mistake of buying first class tickets. Needless to say it didn't quite fit the budget. Being unemployed and paying Rs220 for the train fare alone seemed impossible but I was tired of having cookies from packets and terribly prepared food from restaurants near the place where we had rented an apartment. To make matters worse my husband is a strict vegetarian and being unable to cook delicacies in the kitchen was another reason for my depression. In Calcutta I wouldn't frequent restaurants because our Kitchen itself would become one.   

Of course things are very easy these days with GPS and blogs. I had done my research, noted down my directions and I was ready to devour the delicacies which Bombay has to offer. 

I had gone out that day to indulge in some Parsi food  and my initial destination was Kyani and Co, the legendary bakery and restaurant. Housed at Jer Mahal estate right on JSS road the place embodies the history of Bombay. The moment you enter the place you are transported back to a time when Mumbai was Bombay and  to a time of gentility. The beautiful bentwood chairs and marble top tables have a charisma of their own. 

The prices of the food is a complete delight. For Rs35 the famous Fried chicken called 'Farcha' is a deal which cannot be missed. When you sink your teeth in its juicy goodness you are in for a delicious surprise. You see , this is not your westernized fried chicken. Beautiful spicy flavour bursts out with every bite . While your taste buds are treated to the beautiful blend of what I felt was garlic, onions and a bit of coriander powder and cumin powder the aroma is exhilarating.  Having ventured out on a hot day I cooled off with some watermelon juice and then I went on to order some of the famous akuri. I have had eggs prepared in different styles but never have I tasted something as unique and delicious as this. It was kheema akuri where the minced meat was of a melt in the mouth texture. The flavour of ginger garlic paste , onions , tomato and spices  makes it a superb treat with buns as  soft as cotton balls to accompany this Parsi scrambled egg preparation. I finished off with some cherry custard. I have had custards before, made custards from scratch but I was in for the treat of my life. The custard comes in a  small rectangular foil dish and it is wobbly in texture. With the exact amount of sweetness and the beautiful blend of eggs and milk it was one that had been baked to perfection. I had my hearty lunch and packed some baked goodies for home and decided to explore the place. You see the walk from the erstwhile Victoria Terminus currently known as CST had fascinated me. The architecture made me want to explore every building. 

I was walking around the place admiring the beauty, feeling happy, taking unknown roads to unknown destinations when I suddenly took a turn and found myself in a narrow lane. I was searching for Our Lady of Dolor's church and suddenly I found a  signboard with the words 'Paris bakery' written across it. I went to the counter and was quite confused. There were numerous cookies in different shapes and sizes. The aromatic scent of bakery wafting through the air can intoxicate just about anyone. 

This is not your new age money making bakery. This is the place of genteelness. A place where customers are first treated to biscuits before they can decide on their purchase. I was initially shy but the constant offering from the bakery made me pick up a biscuit  and to me this is what a biscuit should be made of. Buttery with a melt in the mouth texture, it leaves no reside inside your mouth. Its flaky goodness was wonderful. The prices are wonderfully affordable. I picked up 3 varieties of biscuits, shortbread biscuits, almond squares and cheese bites. Grandpa Paris suggested I take the cheese nibbles which he said would be 'more cheesy'. His insistence on my tasting a greater variety of biscuits won my heart over. 

I picked up a loaf of mawa cake and headed home knowing fully well my tea time treats for the next 2 weeks was what I was carrying back . Here I must mention that drinking tea is an elaborate affair for most Bengali families. I firmly decided that Paris Bakery would be a must visit for me on a bi monthly basis for their delectable biscuits priced between Rs60 to Rs90 for 200gm biscuits.  Over the course of three months I had discovered their different flavours and loved all of them be it the Jam nankhatais which are crisp or the Shrewsbury which are big and round . The real treat was when I picked up the buns one day. Soft and plump these buns are made of whole milk and if you are a bread lover such as myself you would be won over. 

They have recently upgraded their menu and I was very sad to see that the garlic Melba toast is no more produced but instead there is a garlic onion stick in its place. They have a  new cheesy flaky twist with cheddar powder as informed by the owner which is bad news because you will gain weight and you will not be able to resist it. 

I am in Love with Bombay even though the rents of Mumbai and the dirt and sea of faces baffle me. To be fair in my recent visits to Calcutta I actually missed my Bombay and by that I mean the Parsi food. 

One cannot have experienced Bombay without a visit to these gems of the city. When the food is as good as it is in these heritage restaurants one cannot but share one's experience .